Many of the pictures in this post were taken by our friends Felix, Noga, and Michelle. I'll label any of their photos fnm.
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The charm of posing for photos with the locals has clearly worn off for Vadim and me. fnm |
While I'm still enjoying India
immensely, I've become accustomed to its idiosyncrasies and so my
initial awe has faded from hourly “WTFs” to a blase “ohhh
India.” Consequently, I haven't felt there's as much to share or
write about. The trip feels self-indulgent at this point, not to
imply this venture was ever anything but. Our weeks look like this:
we choose a destination, figure out how to get there, travel for a
day or two, arrive, find accommodations, wander, eat, exercise,
sleep. And then we do it again a few days later. Thus, the sense of
empty hedonism. There's not a lot of purpose driving the trip
anymore. As much as I'm enjoying myself and am still wholly grateful
for this opportunity, I'm nonetheless a bit whiny and all too ready
to return home. That said, I'm happy to be returning to Arizona with
some sense of fulfillment, not craving a more complete Indian
experience.
Fortunately, the last month has been
mostly good. Uneventful. I got some nice color on my pasty legs after
weeks spent basking on the Arabian Sea. We've also made friends with
whom we spent New Year's Eve and the following weeks. We rode in a
houseboat and have eaten too much cheap, fantastic curried fish.
Around Christmas, we finally succumbed
to an Indian bug. While traveling from Pondicherry to Kodaikanal, we
stopped over for a night in dumpy Dindugal where we were assaulted by
mosquitoes in our fanless sauna of a room. We looked like we had
small pox, but felt okay for a few days; the sickness was incubating.
After a sleepless night some days later, we woke completely depleted
of energy, aching and barely able to walk. Convinced we'd contracted
malaria, we groggily shuffled to the hospital, where we were prodded
and tested and injected. We left with a bag full of prescriptions and
no diagnosis. The entire visit cost $6. The drugs were effective and
we felt like new after a day of feverish sleep, induced by the
tranquilizers injected into our rears.
We'd recovered in time for New Year's
Eve, which was all sorts of fun. We picnicked with the friends we'd
made at the hostel in Kodaikanal snacking on real cheese (!), and the
Australian couple we befriended in Pondicherry in early December came
to join us. In our crowd of ten, we had eight different countries of
birth represented, along with plenty of Indians meandering in to join
the festivities.
After about a week in Kodaikanal, we
headed to Munnar, famous for its tea estates, with six of our new
friends. The trip involved a militarized border crossing from Tamil
Nadu to Kerala, two states fighting over water rights. The first
night we stayed in a dormitory that consisted of 4 beds pushed
together into one gigantic, elongated bed. It was a bit too cozy, but
$1.60 per head was hard to pass up.
From Munnar we moved on to Alleppey, a
beach town. Alleppey was the first town where it felt more like a
traditional, relaxing vacation, the firework-happy communists, creepy
groping, and guava-stealing rats excepted. Otherwise, it was a very
laid-back and easy town. All of our friends returned home or moved
on, so it's back to just Vadim and me, traveling up the coast.
But OH the hardship. How we suffer! En
route to Hampi (rock climbing and other sweet activities, or so we
hear), we decided to stop off in Kozhikode, a town recommended by our
tour guide in the Himalayas. We trusted him but he totally pwned us.
Each of the dozen hotels we visited—at midnight (do you not
empathize with my plight?)--told us they were fully booked. We were
travel weary and more than willing to extend our budget for the night
but no one wanted to go through the hassle of photocopying our
passports and filling out the requisite tedious paperwork that's
required to check into any hotel in India. Thus, grumpy and
disheartened, we headed back to the train station where we went
through the rigamorale of booking another ticket. We were issued a
ticket to the next town despite the train being fully booked. Our
ride involved clinging fiercely to the luggage racks as we were
crowded by vomiting children, passed out drunks, and the standard
unrelenting crowd that characterizes India. We arrived to our current
location, Kannur, at 3 a.m. and again searched for a room. We finally
found a place, our most expensive accommodation yet, at $12 a night.
Excuse me. I'm pausing to watch an
animal video to assuage my discontent:
Okay, much better. On to the good:
Kerala has terrific fruit and juice bars are numerous. I've been
drinking lots of papaya juice and eating faloodas, a parfait layered
with ice cream, nuts, fruit, and cornflakes. South Indian food is, on
the whole, tastier than in the north. It's fresher and the spice
medleys are more varied. Tamarind is used liberally, adding a nice
tanginess to many of the dishes. We've eaten plenty of tamarind pods,
sneakily scavenged by Vadim. Eating and drinking are perhaps the
highlights of this trip. I will miss the cheap food more than
anything.
The remainder of our trip will be spent
in Hampi, Karnataka and Raipur, Chhatisgarh. We'll be climbing and
biking in Hampi for four days and then traveling by train for a
couple of days to Chhatisgarh, where we'll reconnect with Donald, the
friend we met in Delhi. Then it's back to Delhi to buy gifts and fly
home! It's gone by quickly while also feeling interminable. I can't
wait to see everyone. Tell me if there are any specific gifts you'd
like!
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Housebout in Alleppey. fnm |
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Night sky from our balcony in Kodaikanal. fnm |
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Wandering through a tea estate on an illicit self-guided tour. fnm |
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Playing with sticks. fnm |
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fnm |
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View from the ferry from Cochin to Fort Kochi. fnm |
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fnm |
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Vadim, the Russian. vbfnm |
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Pete, the Australian. fnm |
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View from our houseboat. fnm |
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Michelle and Noga, the Israelis. fnm |
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Vanessa, the girl Australian. fnm |
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Felix, the German. fnm |
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Laughter class New Year's Eve fnm |
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Hiding from the authorities in a tea bush. fnm |
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Pete wearing our picnic. After meeting Vadim, he too started sporting a moustache. It's the Indian way. fnm |
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Felix and Vadim climbing in Munnar. fnm |
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fnm |
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Mud war! fnm |
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Vadim lost. fnm |
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fnm |
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Nice men tailoring. fnm |
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Tea leaves. Only the top leaves are worthy of brewing. fnm |
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Interspecies love. fnm |
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fnm |
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We harass every puppy we meet. fnm |
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These kids ran all over to catch the pink chick for me. |
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Vadim's moustache which garners untold attention. |
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Garbage peacock. |
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Garbage cow. |
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Kodaikanal Lake. |
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First-year college students in Kodaikanal with whom we rode bikes and posed for approximately 1000 pictures. |
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The Tamil word for flower is poo. |
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Christmas dinner. |
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Fairy Falls in Kodaikanal |
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All vehicles are decorated. |
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Crazy communists. |
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Sitting on our eight person bed in Munnar New Year's day. |
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Tea! |
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More tea! |
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Another waterfall. |